On 18 November 2023, a reception was held in the Hôtel de Ville de Paris to celebrate the 40th anniversary of the International Academy of Gastronomy. A red carpet leads to the first stairs. Then we reach the masterful grand staircase leading to the opulent Salle des Fêtes of this 19th century building. In an intermediate lounge, students from the Ferrandi Paris School of Gastronomy and Hotel Management await guests with magnums of well-chilled Laurent-Perrier champagne.
Those who wish can do so can pass in front of a photo-call listing the ten Chefs who will be taking part in the evening and the many partners who have generously supported the event, in order to be photographed by a professional photographer.
Gilding of the dazzling Salle des Fêtes partitioned so that the aperitif can be enjoyed in the first third.
In the Salon d’honneur, a haven of beauty and splendour, waiters circulate with trays of sought-after canapés and appetizers (haré by Kosuke Nabeta from Japan, 1 Michelin star in 2019, with sake from Takeno, snack fish shiso (fried shiso leaf under thin slices of sea bream enhanced with sweet pepper) by Manu Buffara from Brazil. Manu, the first Brazilian to have completed an internship at Noma in 2010, Miele “One to Watch,” 50 Best, Best Chef in Latin America, 50 Best in 2022. The Polish Antonius family has set up a caviar bar of its own production. A buffet of Burrus Swiss cheeses, some cubed and some sliced, is very tempting. A station of Lebanese manakish (thin dough from the Lebanese terroir, seasoned with thyme, olive oil and sesame seeds), sponsored by Kamal Mouzawak, holder of the 2018 Grand Prix de la Culture Gastronomique, A.I.G. delights us. Puff pastry is so airy that we can’t stop eating it. The wines offered by Château Ksara du Liban, the red Cuvée du Troisième Millénaire, Vintage 2018, and the Blanc de Blancs, Vintage 2022, are combined for a perfect match.
The numbered tables with white tablecloths falling to the ground, with gilded glasses and gold-edged plates are elegant, centred by a round pie of Poilâne bread decorated with ears of wheat with A.I.G. 40 in bread dough on top, surrounded by small vases of flowers. The 260 guests from 20 different countries are seated. I will remember the finesse of the glasses and the beautiful cutlery.
Fabien Petitcolas took the floor, welcomed the guests and thanked them for their presence in Paris: “The A.I.G. is at a decisive moment in its journey, it is a big step in the new decade. Gastronomy is a universal language that transcends our individual identities. Before giving the floor to Rafael Anson, founder of our Academy, I would like to express my deep gratitude to Nicolas Kenedi, of the Academy of Gastronomes and the Polish Academy of Gastronomy, who has been fully committed to the success of this event. His innovative ideas, valuable relationships and vital partners have been instrumental. My thanks also go to Jacques Mallard, Honorary President.”
The brigadiers are Nicolas Kenedi, Fabien Petitcolas and Jacques Mallard. Wine curators Aymeric de Clouet of the Académie des gastronomes and Alexandre Col of the Académie suisse des gourmets and the Table des 13. The Executive Chef is Marie Soria of Potel & Chabot, the leading luxury caterer in Paris. The heavily alcoholic Moutai is served generously.
Presentation of the A.I.G. Grands Prix
Arnaud Donckele (Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine) receives his prize from Jacques. He works in the restaurants Plénitude in Paris and La Vague d’Or in Saint Tropez. José Polo (Grand Prix de l’Art de la Salle) from the restaurant Atrio (Spain). The encyclopaedic collection Bullipedia (Grand Prix de la Culture Gastronomique). Two winners for the Grand Prize for Science and Food, Professor Pedro Graça from Porto, Portugal and Fadi Abou from Lebanon. Mr. Carlos Fontão De Carvalho, President of the Portuguese Academy of Gastronomy, took the floor: “The 25-page book has become a 400-page book.” The awards are presented by Nicolas Kenedi. The Exceptional Grand Prize was awarded by Nicolas Kenedi to the representative of the Rungis International Food Market.
Presentation of meal
While the teams from Potel & Chabot and the Ferrandi School prepare the first course, Nicolas Kenedi: “I would like you to give me six more minutes of your time… This dinner took six months to complete. The manakish of Kamal Mouzawak from the Mediterranean Basin went hand in hand with the wines offered by Château Ksara, thank you Naji and Khalil. The bread of life by Apollonia Poilâne, the special salad…” He presents the dishes we are going to have3. ”We’re going to make a toast with the little glass filled with baijiu Moutai. Bon appétit and great thirst!”
Celebrating 40 years is like telling 5 decades of gastronomic history illustrated by 5 Chefs, emblematic figures and precursors. The chosen menu focuses on iconic dishes from each decade.
The baguette is made by Sri Lankan baker Tharshan Selvarajah (best baguette in Paris in 2023). Leaves from Alain Passard’s garden vertically in a glass, nature in its raw state. The first course (1980s) is the French toast with Antonius caviar, a cube of brioche hollowed out and filled with mashed potatoes, topped with a thick layer of caviar. Next to it, a frothy and tangy sauce, maritime mertensie leaves and cockles, by Stéphanie le Quellec (2 Michelin stars, winner of Top Chef 2011 and Prix au Chef de l’Avenir 2014, A.I.G.) accompanied by Champagne Laurent-Perrier Grand Siècle.
This is followed by the white quenelle, sprinkled with fennel pollen, sweet alyssum and “sea truffle” (2000’s) by Tommy Myllymäki (2 Michelin stars, winner of the Bocuse d’Argent 2011 and the Gold Medal of the Swedish Academy of Gastronomy 2016), very good, with Beaune Grèves 1er Cru, Clos Blanc.
Then the prawns of Palamos (1990’s) by Joan Roca (3 Michelin stars, Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine 2011, A.I.G., Best restaurant in the world in 2013 according to Restaurant Magazine) and Riesling R de BeyeR, Grand Cru Eichberg. Good dish.
Beef tenderloin by Yannick Alléno (3 Michelin stars, Bocuse d’Argent 1999 and Grand Prix de l’Art de la Cuisine 2016, A.I.G.) and Bobby Lo (China) for the Pekingese sauce (2000’s) is a pure marvel, tender as can be, covered with a medium-thick pancake and a few purslane leaves. The sauce, thanks to its characteristic flavor, adds a sweet and sour touch to the whole. Château d’Armailhac Grand Cru Classé de Pauillac in magnum.
Fabien calls Nicolas, Jacques, the Chefs, the partners, the Grand Prix Laureates, the waiters and members of the A.I.G. on stage for photos. A huge cone of Hermé vanilla and chocolate macarons is worn with great pomp and placed on a table in the entrance.
And after him, waiters and cooks parade. A vanilla tart with fine flavours, sprinkled with cocoa on the edge (2010’s) also by Pierre Hermé (Best Pastry Chef in the world by 50 Best in 2016) is tasted with Camus Cognac, Legion of Honor Private Collection, a rare nobility that reveals the subtlety of the vanilla.
Sumptuous and elegant meal to mark the forty years of the A.I.G.!
