Members of the International Academy of Gastronomy (A.I.G.) gathered on Sunday, April 27 2025, at the Baccarat restaurant, led by Alain Ducasse, for a gastronomic dinner prepared by Chef Christophe Saintagne. The term “gastronomy” is a neologism coined by the poet Joseph Berchoux in 1800. Modern touches have been added to the original classic decor. The atmosphere was warm, and amuse-bouches were passed around, including feta balls in a sauce and Pierre Peters champagne.
Fabien: “Our Chef is Christophe Saintagne. I wish you a good appetite and a great thirst!” Jacques: “I am very happy to welcome you tonight with Fabien. The restaurant opened last October. The Chef was named Chef of the Future in 2012.” He then presented the menu. Guests were seated. The tables were set with Baccarat Harcourt glasses and Christofle cutlery.
Small starter: radishes cut in half with olive condiment. Chef Christophe introduced himself and hoped everyone would enjoy the dinner. “Cacio e pepe” artichoke resting on a cheese and pepper sauce, paired with a mix of duck, foie gras, and green cabbage in a Landes broth. A 2023 Corse-Sartène wine from San Micheli was served. White asparagus served natural, cut lengthwise, with marinated persimmon and bottarga. Breton blue lobster with tapioca pearls and rose-infused in a lobster emulsion. A 2023 Macon-Bray wine accompanied this dish. Sliced beef with cocoa grue, sea urchin garlic potatoes. 2020 Terrasses-du-Larzac wine. Cheese platter: Epoisses, Comte, Roquefort, Brie de Meaux with 2022 Marsannay. Strawberries on red wine granita, cream. Nut sable cookies to share, broken with a hammer by the waitress. 2021 Muscat-de-Beaumes-de-Venise.
Fabien, Chef Christophe, Sous-Chef Robin, and sommelier Fabrice addressed the guests. Fabien gave his comment—or rather, praise—in English: “Positive things came out of the kitchen. The decor is a contrast between old and new. The amuse-bouches were an explosion of flavors. The raw asparagus, the sweet-and-sour bottarga. We had perfect, efficient service with good timing. Artichokes, duck, cabbage. Bravo for the lobster! The beef was perfectly cooked, and the potatoes. Beautiful cheese presentation. The strawberries were fresh and light but too cold.” Jacques, also in English: “The wines were subtly chosen and paired well with the dishes.” The dinner ended at 11 p.m.
The next day, the General Assembly was held at the Hôtel Napoléon, after which we gathered in a private room in the basement of the restaurant La Scène, led by Chef Stéphanie Le Quellec. The tables were made of green and brown marble. Jacques read the menu and thanked Stéphanie, who was named Chef of the Future in 2014.
Amuse-bouches: Marinated pike-perch, anchovies with onions. Pierre Moncuit grand cru champagne. The meal began with a signature dish: “petits pois à la française.” Arnaud’s tip: add two mint leaves to the cooking water for the peas. The peas were very, very small and delicious. The “scared-cooked” red mullet was placed at the edge of the plate in a reddish sauce (clove) with a greenish sauce poured over it (fennel, anise, and orange blossom). 2023 Touraine Le Clocher white wine.
Next, two slices of mature lamb with white asparagus, shaved and braised, served with 2017 Cahors red wine. Dessert was a kind of chocolate mousse with juniper, created by pastry chef Pierre Chirac, accompanied by a 2002 natural sweet wine. Instead of petit fours, small Nantes cakes with a touch of rum, reminiscent of Lyon’s cannelés.
Fabien gave his review with Stéphanie by his side: “There was generosity with the amuse-bouches, a complex simplicity. The peas were truly baby peas, the mullet almost raw but cooked, the fennel with anise. Baby lamb, big lamb. Petit Jésus in velvet pants (red wine). Asparagus… All crowned by an explosion of chocolate in three textures. The juniper enhanced the chocolate. The tuile was crispy. No cheese…” An excellent meal to conclude our General Assembly!